Flew in on Lao Airlines from LP..about $145 each with a stop in Pakse.
Hotel
pre-booked on Agoda.com, Villa Siem Reap, away from the busy noise of the Pub street triangle, on Taphul Street off sam dech tep Rd a block away from the park Hyatt being built. Great location. Included breakfast and $30 a night. Lovely friendly staff.
Angkor wat
Took a hotel arranged tuk tuk. Whole day was $15 for the short route. Mistake was to ask driver to take us to a lunch place as he ended up taking us to a place where he most likely got commisison, and it was the most expensive meal in Cambodia for us (OK, still only $25), but word of warning, donlt ask to be taken somewhere if you want an authentic place.
entry fee: $20 for a day pass. Keep pass with you at all times. onme day pass was enough for us frankly.
Food
Khemer kitchen-open facing restaurant along the Street 9 side of the psar. Shrimp pancake and stir fry veggies and a few beers about $10 or less.
cant recall name, but on Sivatha road one block south of the intersection of the Park Hyatt. Open facing restaurant with massive grill outside and lovely dining area both outside and 'covered'. (Blue wave?) Clean, good quality and not too bad in price about $10 per head.
supermarket in a mall where Pizza company and ice cream parlor. get any pepepr or spcies here as they are nicely packaged and much cheaper than the psar here or anywhere else kin cambodia we found.
Transport
bus to phnoem penh was a 10 seater mini-van (VIP?) where an office is locagted kin same block as the nice grill restaurant. per person $8-10??? About 6 or so per day. 4hrs.
Monday, February 11, 2013
Luang Prabang-sublime
Truly a magical "city", very tranquil and relaxed place that sits atop two rivers that converge. The bus station is on the east side of the Nam Khan river by the airport. tuk tuk cost about 10,000 kip each.
We stayed at the wonderful Apsara on Kingkitsarath Road which is on the peninsula part and overlooked the Nam Khan river. Booked through Booking.com and paid about $80 a night for a fab room (room #8) that had a private balcony overlooking the road and river, form where we sat and drank beers and watched monks and people stroll by. One of the more expensive places we stayed, but it was holidays and peak travel time, and a hotel that would cost easily 4180 or so a night, it was a good deal in my view. Note, no TV in case it matters and wi-fi spotty. I had to go to the main hotel building to get faster wi-fi (free). Lovely breakfast included which we ate on the main building verandah.
Meals
To do
We stayed at the wonderful Apsara on Kingkitsarath Road which is on the peninsula part and overlooked the Nam Khan river. Booked through Booking.com and paid about $80 a night for a fab room (room #8) that had a private balcony overlooking the road and river, form where we sat and drank beers and watched monks and people stroll by. One of the more expensive places we stayed, but it was holidays and peak travel time, and a hotel that would cost easily 4180 or so a night, it was a good deal in my view. Note, no TV in case it matters and wi-fi spotty. I had to go to the main hotel building to get faster wi-fi (free). Lovely breakfast included which we ate on the main building verandah.
Meals
- Night market: buffet style stalls set up in an alley at the night market. Chocka and all seem to be vegetarian with a few meat BBQ stands that are a separate charge to the otherwise, pile your plate as high as you can for $K10,000.
- no shortage of Chinese and lao places that cooked in open air kitchens overlooking the sidewalk.
- dinner at Apsara hotel in patio section across the street right overlooking river. delicious cold mushroom salad with cilantro, mint and spring onion. Delicious. With beers (several) abotu $30 for two.
- Coffee at Mekong riverview hotel cafe across the street from their hotel and also overlooking the convergence of the river. Nice place to stop and have a breather
To do
- WALK!!!! Go down all laneways and streets. lots to see and absorb. the temples of course, but meandering through streets off the main peninsula part is also a must. of note to us was the streets that led to the Chao Anouvong monument and the UXO missile museum ( Bhounkhong street). The hotel de la paix used to be an old prison and is now a luxury hotel. so lux they don't even bother putting the hotel name out front; out curiosity of this high walled space and open gate drew us in.
- Alms giving: overrated and wrought with appalling tourist behaviours shoving into the flow of the monks to take a flash photo or pretend it is a meaningful gesture to them to give alms, when really, its a lame attempt to have a 'local' namaste experience. I had strong feelings about what a Disney tragedy it all is. Food vendors would be better positioned to sell coffee at 5am rather than low quality insulting rice packets.
- we kept walking down the side roads to the Craft Center and the main market which sits about 2m west of the main drag.
- cross the Mekong river on the car 'ferry' and walk through the little village on the bank of the Mekong where there are more temples and brick path, that eventually peters out to a track to quite temples. i see this side of the river getting more traction for hotels and hostels being touted as the "quiet' side as Luang Prabang gets more popular and crowded.
Udomxai
I don't think even pictures would have prepared us for this stunning bus ride from Luang Namtha to Udomxai! only 180 odd kilometres that took 6 hours to cover because of the amazing altitude and curved roads the poor struggling bus took. Spectacular vistas peppered with traditional stilt housevillages and the color of their woven fabrics. the 40,000Kip was worth very penny and every hour, even when the bus had to stop to get repaired! magic.
Udomxai is a cross roads of trade between laos, vietnam and china. Lots of mandarin heard, written and spoken. the market was chocka with plastic and other mass wares from China too. not much to see here but pleasant for an overnighter. the market is actually pretty lively and vibrant-we saw more unidentified charred critters on skewers for sale. i also found a stall that sold lovely Lao rice baskets for 10,000K, turns out the cheapest I was able to find in the country as clearly other tourists found them as endearing as me in other towns and they were 40,000 and up!
Lots of hostels, but we went for the Villa Keoseumsack which wasnt far from the bus station (we wanted to get the 8am bus to Luang Prabang) and clean, central etc. on the Main road along the stairs/footpath that climbs up to the main temple. Rooms large, clean, fridge, back newer building. Cost 60,000K???
Food picking seemed slim; a lot of Chinese places, so we opted for a Lao place near the hotel, worked by two very petulant daughters who clearly wold much rather be somewhere else! Food OK, beer cheap.
Udomxai is a cross roads of trade between laos, vietnam and china. Lots of mandarin heard, written and spoken. the market was chocka with plastic and other mass wares from China too. not much to see here but pleasant for an overnighter. the market is actually pretty lively and vibrant-we saw more unidentified charred critters on skewers for sale. i also found a stall that sold lovely Lao rice baskets for 10,000K, turns out the cheapest I was able to find in the country as clearly other tourists found them as endearing as me in other towns and they were 40,000 and up!
Lots of hostels, but we went for the Villa Keoseumsack which wasnt far from the bus station (we wanted to get the 8am bus to Luang Prabang) and clean, central etc. on the Main road along the stairs/footpath that climbs up to the main temple. Rooms large, clean, fridge, back newer building. Cost 60,000K???
Food picking seemed slim; a lot of Chinese places, so we opted for a Lao place near the hotel, worked by two very petulant daughters who clearly wold much rather be somewhere else! Food OK, beer cheap.
Bus tricks
the 8 am bus to Luang Prabang is a popular one with the tourists, so need to get there early to lock in a ticket then get on bus to stake a seat, as the locals do the same and start piling bags of rice and their other stuff. the ticket stand opens at 7am, so get ready to queue. if with another person, divide and conquer for one to get the tickets and the other to get breakfast. i went to the Siso bakery next to the roundabout up near the bus station selling good egg baguette sandwiches and coffee. the coffee ladies at the bus station are also good too. It's another fab bus trip with lots to see on both sides of the bus so make sure your camera battery is charged and get a window seat!
Mekong, me coming!
The bus from the central bus station in Chiang Rai to the border town of Chiang Khong on the Mekong river is easy and straightforward. They usually leave from bay #4 or 7 and have many peppered throughout the day. When we were there in Jan 2, no advance ticket purchase was available, you had to buy on the day.
Keep in mind the border closes in the late afternoon, so allow for a bus of about 2-2.5 hours, a tuk tuk from the bus station in the town to the actual border post a few kilometres away, exit border processing, small long boat to cross, and then Laos Huay Xai border process. Longer if you dont have a passport photo! We got the 8 am bus and cleared all of the above by 11-ish. there was a noon bus to Luang Namtha (6 hours), so we had plenty of time to get another tuk tuk from Huay Xai boat area to the bus station about 10 kilometres away.
The bus ticket was 55,000 kip (approx $8). Nice thing about "communism' is that prices are all posted, so risk of being cheated in fares. Note the bus station for Luang namtha is also about 10km away from the actual town. the tuk tuk from the stain is pretty standard at about 5,000kip.
Phou-lu III (or is it II?) Bungalows
From the bus station/tuk tuk drop off, turn right to the main road and walk a 50yrd slight incline to the main drag where there are many hostels. I caught wind of bungalows about an 8 minute walk away from the main area and night market towards the river and thankfully too far for most backpackers to want to walk to.
This place was a gem of a find! http://www.phou-lu-bungalows.com/. we paid $20 for a gorgeous, clean, simple entire bungalow with own front porch, fridge, and breakfast included. the family that run this are very savvy with tourism, self taught entrepreneurs. i wish them all the success they deserve, and only hope it doesn't get overrun by backpackers or travelers.
Luang Namtha is a great place to get introduced to Lao life and people. A very chill town with a growing outdoor hiking and adventure hub, I expect it will change quickly. Ambling around is easy in the grid system of the streets. the night market had great roast duck (15,000kip) and som tam salads (10,000K), and the morning market on the other side (about 10 blocks away) is well worth the wander. Lucky me, they speak a lot of Mandarin here, so it was easy to get by. i spotted a few mini-buses that connected Luang Namtha with village sin China, so one to remember as a possible route to southern china from this part of Laos.
I'd go back to Luang Namtha and stay longer for some hill tribe homestay hikes. One spot that seemed to be doing good things with training the locals and offering good experiences (and coffee) is the Forest Retreat on the main road. they make a solid cup of coffee (Kiwi style!)
Keep in mind the border closes in the late afternoon, so allow for a bus of about 2-2.5 hours, a tuk tuk from the bus station in the town to the actual border post a few kilometres away, exit border processing, small long boat to cross, and then Laos Huay Xai border process. Longer if you dont have a passport photo! We got the 8 am bus and cleared all of the above by 11-ish. there was a noon bus to Luang Namtha (6 hours), so we had plenty of time to get another tuk tuk from Huay Xai boat area to the bus station about 10 kilometres away.
The bus ticket was 55,000 kip (approx $8). Nice thing about "communism' is that prices are all posted, so risk of being cheated in fares. Note the bus station for Luang namtha is also about 10km away from the actual town. the tuk tuk from the stain is pretty standard at about 5,000kip.
Phou-lu III (or is it II?) Bungalows
From the bus station/tuk tuk drop off, turn right to the main road and walk a 50yrd slight incline to the main drag where there are many hostels. I caught wind of bungalows about an 8 minute walk away from the main area and night market towards the river and thankfully too far for most backpackers to want to walk to.
This place was a gem of a find! http://www.phou-lu-bungalows.com/. we paid $20 for a gorgeous, clean, simple entire bungalow with own front porch, fridge, and breakfast included. the family that run this are very savvy with tourism, self taught entrepreneurs. i wish them all the success they deserve, and only hope it doesn't get overrun by backpackers or travelers.
Luang Namtha is a great place to get introduced to Lao life and people. A very chill town with a growing outdoor hiking and adventure hub, I expect it will change quickly. Ambling around is easy in the grid system of the streets. the night market had great roast duck (15,000kip) and som tam salads (10,000K), and the morning market on the other side (about 10 blocks away) is well worth the wander. Lucky me, they speak a lot of Mandarin here, so it was easy to get by. i spotted a few mini-buses that connected Luang Namtha with village sin China, so one to remember as a possible route to southern china from this part of Laos.
I'd go back to Luang Namtha and stay longer for some hill tribe homestay hikes. One spot that seemed to be doing good things with training the locals and offering good experiences (and coffee) is the Forest Retreat on the main road. they make a solid cup of coffee (Kiwi style!)
Saturday, January 19, 2013
Chiang Rai-ra ra!
Bus from Chiang Mai was on Green Bus, a modern, new and very efficient bus line that "gets" the travel space and provided an on board steward(ess) who handed out moist towlettes, water and a snack! Boy can US bus compnaies learn alot from these smaller operations who understand customers and service, even wit the smallest of gestures such as a bottled water and a smile. Note: there are two bus stations in Chiang Rai, a new modern one about 7 km south of town and old bus station that is in the center. make sure to ask if the bus stops at both. i saw many falangs get off at the first stop thinking it was the end of the line, but it wasn't. saves haggling with a tuk tuk driver to get into the center.
This go round I booked via Booking.com a room at the new Baan Siam, 111/36 M.19 Banrai Rd.
Bann Siam Google map street view
When i booked back in May I think it was only open a week, and so there were no reviews at all to go on. i chanced it, it was 600 BHT a night ($20) and figured if it was absolute hell, we can find a place for the second night. It was FAB! Turns out it must have been a promo price as when i did a price check through Booking.com again for the same dates, it was %60 a night. The owner came out upon payment as i think he too couldn't believe the price. Thank god for printed out copies and Booking.com to back up the confirmed price! I wouldn't stay there for $60, but at $20 it was a deal...perhaps it is more a $30-440 a night place. Then I learned from the owner that he also owns the GORGEOUS Ratchamanka Hotel in Chiang Mai managed by his son, it made sense all the modern and subtle touches.
Clean, modern, tucked in a quiet side street on the western side of the city near to the Mekong and towards the far more cush Meridien where the rest of New Year falangs were staying. Right next door is a self-serve laundry spot.
The main road near the hotel is Hwy 1-Phahon Rothin which comes from CR center over the Mekong. By the hotel end of it, there was a restaurat that was jamming with locals and looked quite good with lots of outdoor seating and a grill. Sor Lung Kam. Turn right out of the hotel and about 50 yards from the hotel is the Halal Muslim place-brand spanking new, or if not, spanking clean: https://maps.google.com/maps?q=baan+siam+hotel+chiang+rai&ie=UTF-8&ei=3RL7ULuTJsbg2QXG-oHwCA&ved=0CAsQ_AUoAA. (lots of Muslims in Thailand!)
Not central to the night market, so a 15 minute pleasant stroll to the bus station and market area. but nice and close to the temples and Mekong areas. Nothing is ever really far in Chiang Rai.
End of december until early January is the International Flower show. this year at the fair grounds along the mekong on the northern side a bit west of the center. Great way to interact and be with the throngs of locals who rock up with families to snap endless photos in front of displays made of flowers and browse through the stalls and exhibits. Great fun, and Free! We hopped a small boat for $1 each to go up river to the central part of Chiang Rai. Chiang Mai...again
Tried avoiding going to Chiang Mai on this third trip to Thailand, but given all the buses were sold out for Sokhathai and Phrae, no choice but to take the overnighter to Chiang Mai. Great bus line called 999 and costing BHT876 for both us (less than $30) Comfy seats, blankies (very cold airconditioning) and water provided. Rocked up to the bus terminal early next morning.
Because of last minute plans, hotel options were slim on Booking.com and booked at Mercure hotel outside north gate by Elephant Statue, about 10 minutes to the Northgate on foot. Safe area, super friendly and helpful staff, but the room was dreadfully dated: 70's tatty furniture, sheets seemed threadbare, windows janky, in dire need of a remodel, which I think since Mercure took over the hotel they must be working on (a new pool apparently). Definitely not worth the 35 a night we paid (or was it 60?)...
Great city to walk arund, visit the night markets, temples and wander in the street where there are no tourists (as small as CM is, there are many streets tourists, thankfully, don't bother going down) Walk to the river area and market, and outside on the west gate, keep walking past the very modern hospital and wend into the side streets on the opposite side where there to an old overgrown run down temple.Tuesday, January 15, 2013
Christmas in Bangkok
Well, not really. We left Christmas day and landed in BKK Thursday Dec 27th at 1:30am, spent 3 hrs in an immigration line before haggling with a cab driver to take us to the Courtyard Marriot in Ratchadamri (Rajdamri) using the meter. Very important as they often quote a flat rate when the meter (especially at 3am when the roads are quiet) is cheaper. I think we paid around 250 and the mandatory 50bht they add on to the fares from the airport. if you go by the highway, you pay the tolls.
The hotel is in great location, set in a Soi and loads of back lane-ways in a smart neighborhood. 5 mins from the Siam sq shopping malls, skyline train, and 10 mins from the night market, Rama IV etc areas, making for loads of options for eating and public transport to Chao Praya points of interest.
Hotel is clean, modern and staff are fab. Nice pool area. I booked through the site and paid $100 all-in with taxes. Breakfast was apprx $15 per person, which we skipped the first day but when we saw it was an amazing varied buffet, it set us up for the day until dinner so well worth it.
https://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&ie=UTF8&q=courtyard+marriott+bangkok&fb=1&gl=us&hq=courtyard+marriott&hnear=0x311d6032280d61f3:0x36458563858b0fc7,Bangkok,+Thailand&cid=0,0,2888004464305966492&ll=13.741365,100.540566&spn=0.010547,0.018475&t=m&z=16&vpsrc=6&ei=mzj2UKaKKIqXiAKC0IBA&pw=2
Booked dinner at Nahm, in the Metrpolitan Hotel in the trendy Sathorn district. Great meal and intro to thai food if you only know it as phad thai. Spendy meal, but beautiful food, even of the dining room is a it uber-trendy stiff. http://www.comohotels.com/metropolitanbangkok/dining/nahm
Massages & Happy Endings
Lots to choose from, but we went legit at the Montra in the Central World Plaza mall (B2-12), Zone B. $350BHT for one hour neck, shoulder head massage (approx $12). Clean, pleasant and walk ins welcomed.
Getting out of Dodge
it being NYE, seems everyone in Bangkok leaves in masses to the provinces, whuch meant all the buses for three days were booked to Sukhotthai, thus thwarting our two days wend to Chiang rai. the only thing available was a night bus to Chiang Mai. Sold!
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| Is that a durian in your pocket or you just happy to see me? |
The hotel is in great location, set in a Soi and loads of back lane-ways in a smart neighborhood. 5 mins from the Siam sq shopping malls, skyline train, and 10 mins from the night market, Rama IV etc areas, making for loads of options for eating and public transport to Chao Praya points of interest.
Hotel is clean, modern and staff are fab. Nice pool area. I booked through the site and paid $100 all-in with taxes. Breakfast was apprx $15 per person, which we skipped the first day but when we saw it was an amazing varied buffet, it set us up for the day until dinner so well worth it.
https://maps.google.com/maps?hl=en&ie=UTF8&q=courtyard+marriott+bangkok&fb=1&gl=us&hq=courtyard+marriott&hnear=0x311d6032280d61f3:0x36458563858b0fc7,Bangkok,+Thailand&cid=0,0,2888004464305966492&ll=13.741365,100.540566&spn=0.010547,0.018475&t=m&z=16&vpsrc=6&ei=mzj2UKaKKIqXiAKC0IBA&pw=2
Booked dinner at Nahm, in the Metrpolitan Hotel in the trendy Sathorn district. Great meal and intro to thai food if you only know it as phad thai. Spendy meal, but beautiful food, even of the dining room is a it uber-trendy stiff. http://www.comohotels.com/metropolitanbangkok/dining/nahm
Massages & Happy Endings
Lots to choose from, but we went legit at the Montra in the Central World Plaza mall (B2-12), Zone B. $350BHT for one hour neck, shoulder head massage (approx $12). Clean, pleasant and walk ins welcomed.
Getting out of Dodge
it being NYE, seems everyone in Bangkok leaves in masses to the provinces, whuch meant all the buses for three days were booked to Sukhotthai, thus thwarting our two days wend to Chiang rai. the only thing available was a night bus to Chiang Mai. Sold!
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