We arrived late afternoon and headed along on foot along the Costanera "road" (i.e. dirt). A nice intro the place as it we wended away from the backpacker cluster along the stillness of this road overlooking Lago Titicaca, joined by the odd straggler Argie backpacker coming to/from a hostel run by Argentinians about 1.5km out of town. Our place was the Ecolodge del Lago, about 1 km out of town, set back from the road with cabanas dotted up along the hillside set in lovely gardens. Very private with lovely views of the lake, our cabana was soare and lovely with a great modern bathroom; all run on solar power.
Breakfasts were the expected combo of bread or toast, with eggs, coffee or tea and juice prepared by the family taking care of the place. We paid $720B for the three nights (approx $103, or $33 a night). Given the many hostels there, it was likely on the spendy side, but the privacy, cleanliness, quiet and setting made this a bargain in my eyes. I am sure of we were to return, the town will have crept along the costanera, making this place less off-the-beaten path.
Amazing how little it tkes to actually get away from the backpackers who only seem to migrate wherever the LP guidebook tells them to go. In other words, the two block stretch of 6 de Agosto. Head to the daily market, the church, or even the candle chapel on the side, and there was nary a sign of a tourist. The weather was overcast and rainy so we passed on taking a ferry to Isla del Sol the whole stay, and opted to loiter around the town, climb up to Cerra Clavario, and relax.
Eating seemed limited if you didn't want to hang out with the tourists. We got lucky and landed at El Emperador, one of the many kiosks on the costanera that served up lake trout, rice and other handlful of dishes. The owner was Balbina Elias whose mum had ad the same kiosk, and she and her husband served up a good fish and ice cld beers. Because we came back every day, she warmed up to us, sat with us, and shared village gossip, such as the jealousy of the other kiosk owners, and how everyone must serve the same menu so as not to outdo each other with any deviations or innovations. As she sat at a front table cleaning or peeling potatoes, she asked if I like peeling potatoes, hinting toward my taking the task on. Very cheeky. Day meals tended to be avocado and bread from the market, which kept things light and cheap. One dinner was at La Orilla, where the Bolivian owner grew up in the DC area, and wanted to come back to Bolivia, raising his child in a quiet town, so opened up this place. Great sense of service and quality food.
Breakfasts were the expected combo of bread or toast, with eggs, coffee or tea and juice prepared by the family taking care of the place. We paid $720B for the three nights (approx $103, or $33 a night). Given the many hostels there, it was likely on the spendy side, but the privacy, cleanliness, quiet and setting made this a bargain in my eyes. I am sure of we were to return, the town will have crept along the costanera, making this place less off-the-beaten path.
Amazing how little it tkes to actually get away from the backpackers who only seem to migrate wherever the LP guidebook tells them to go. In other words, the two block stretch of 6 de Agosto. Head to the daily market, the church, or even the candle chapel on the side, and there was nary a sign of a tourist. The weather was overcast and rainy so we passed on taking a ferry to Isla del Sol the whole stay, and opted to loiter around the town, climb up to Cerra Clavario, and relax.
Eating seemed limited if you didn't want to hang out with the tourists. We got lucky and landed at El Emperador, one of the many kiosks on the costanera that served up lake trout, rice and other handlful of dishes. The owner was Balbina Elias whose mum had ad the same kiosk, and she and her husband served up a good fish and ice cld beers. Because we came back every day, she warmed up to us, sat with us, and shared village gossip, such as the jealousy of the other kiosk owners, and how everyone must serve the same menu so as not to outdo each other with any deviations or innovations. As she sat at a front table cleaning or peeling potatoes, she asked if I like peeling potatoes, hinting toward my taking the task on. Very cheeky. Day meals tended to be avocado and bread from the market, which kept things light and cheap. One dinner was at La Orilla, where the Bolivian owner grew up in the DC area, and wanted to come back to Bolivia, raising his child in a quiet town, so opened up this place. Great sense of service and quality food.
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