Zurich
A note about Swiss rail: superb service, connecting with cable cars, trams, buses, etc throughout the country. I reckon there isn't a village you cant get to through the transit system in Switzerland. I had a 8 day first class rail pass, which was provided by the Swiss hosts of the ATWS, but second class trains were just as comfortable and clean.
Next stop Zurich for a night to visit a friend Staikos, who had been calling it home for the last 4 or 5 years. Another lovely Swiss city-bigger and more bustle than Luzern. Large shopping area and winding cobbled streets along both sides of the river that separates the downtown with the old town on the east side.
My hotel was on the east side in the old town, all of 10 minute walk from the central train station. Hotel Marta, Zahringerstrasse 36. Modernized, boxy, simple lobby decor, and the rooms were spare, medium sized but clean. My room was 505. CHF 127.50 (inc room tax. US$140)
Nice to be on a high floor, as on a Saturday night, the noise from the bars across the street were muffled. I'd hate to be on a lower floor on that side of the hotel otherwise. Also, the view from the room overlooked the rooftops and just caught a glimpse of the mountains. Nice. Breakfast was uber basic, bordering on mediocre/bad. There were too many pastry shops and cafes that I actually wasn't bothered as I wanted to try one of them on my only morning in town.
Food and Beverage
Afternoon hot chocolate and exquisite cake at iconic Sprungli on Bahnhofstrasse 21. Sat downstairs with the melee of people and overlooking the street bustle. Must see. They have several locations but this is the original.
Dinner: no shortage of cafes, restaurants and beer houses serving Swiss meats, sausages and carb-loads. Traditional Swiss beer-swilling place was near hotel on Niederdorfstrasse 70, Restaurant Brasserie Johanniter. Schintzels for two and four pints set us back CHF 78.50.
Spied this lady starkers on a crisp Fall day; she must be BONKERS!
Breakfast: Konditorei Peclard. Exquisite shop and cafe tables out front. Could've stayed in Zurich a week just to go try everythng in the pastry case. Settled for a apricot cream dream (CHF4) and latte (CHF6!!!!, yes, it's 'boutique' coffee). Despite to top-shelf poricing for the coffee, it was an
absolute treat to sit outside on a nippy morning enjoying the most heavenly cake I have ever had. Bliss.
A note about Swiss rail: superb service, connecting with cable cars, trams, buses, etc throughout the country. I reckon there isn't a village you cant get to through the transit system in Switzerland. I had a 8 day first class rail pass, which was provided by the Swiss hosts of the ATWS, but second class trains were just as comfortable and clean.
Next stop Zurich for a night to visit a friend Staikos, who had been calling it home for the last 4 or 5 years. Another lovely Swiss city-bigger and more bustle than Luzern. Large shopping area and winding cobbled streets along both sides of the river that separates the downtown with the old town on the east side.
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| Room with a view |
My hotel was on the east side in the old town, all of 10 minute walk from the central train station. Hotel Marta, Zahringerstrasse 36. Modernized, boxy, simple lobby decor, and the rooms were spare, medium sized but clean. My room was 505. CHF 127.50 (inc room tax. US$140)
Nice to be on a high floor, as on a Saturday night, the noise from the bars across the street were muffled. I'd hate to be on a lower floor on that side of the hotel otherwise. Also, the view from the room overlooked the rooftops and just caught a glimpse of the mountains. Nice. Breakfast was uber basic, bordering on mediocre/bad. There were too many pastry shops and cafes that I actually wasn't bothered as I wanted to try one of them on my only morning in town.
Food and Beverage
Afternoon hot chocolate and exquisite cake at iconic Sprungli on Bahnhofstrasse 21. Sat downstairs with the melee of people and overlooking the street bustle. Must see. They have several locations but this is the original.
Drinks: Along River Sihl, lots of bars and converted ld warehouses overlooking the river. Even when its cold, people still sit outside at large group picnic tables to drink and eat.
Refurbed theatre and outdoor bar, El Lokal, Gessner-Allee 11 · 8001 Zurigo Isola · 043 344 87 50
Restaurant Reithalle, a converted stables turn huge beer hall. Great space.
Old town makes for nice strolling, any time of day, but early morning was lovely; I had the streets to myself, and one other guy. Side streets that climb upwards, colorful houses, rambling ivy, gorgeous details in the building woodwork and doorways, oh yes, and graffitti. Lots of sculptures too.
Spied this lady starkers on a crisp Fall day; she must be BONKERS!
Breakfast: Konditorei Peclard. Exquisite shop and cafe tables out front. Could've stayed in Zurich a week just to go try everythng in the pastry case. Settled for a apricot cream dream (CHF4) and latte (CHF6!!!!, yes, it's 'boutique' coffee). Despite to top-shelf poricing for the coffee, it was an
Bye-Bye Zurich. Danke! Off to Milan on 11 am train. 4 hours through dramatic mountain scenery past Bellinzona, Lugano, Como (George Clooney country. I waved from the window) and dropping down to Milan Central.
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