Arequipa was lovely but we had a full day and a morning there which was enough for us and we took off for Colca Canyon. There are two main towns to head for, Chivay at the 'beginning' of the canyon road and Cabanconde at the 'end'. All buses go to Chivay (3 hrs) and some continue on to Cabanconde or you can change buses at Chivay where other services are available. We took a Reyna bus to Chivay (14NS) waited an hour for a bus to Cabanaconde (2hrs I think 2NS). Had we taken a tour or private minibus the entire journey would've been more like 3 hrs, but I think it's more interesting to travel with locals and not least be shackled to a 'tour' for considerably more money.
Beware of folks in 'official' AUTOCOLCA vests and clip boards at the Chivay bus terminal asking if you are going to the Cruz del Condor and the Oasis etc, because they will ask you to pay a "ticket' ($30-35?NS) to go to these places. I was suspicious as I hadn't read about this fee, so I told him we were going to just hang out in Cabanaconde and decide there what we will do, Is there a local office there where I can pay the fee? Stumped by that question he left us alone.
We stayed at Kuntur Wasi , a lovely brick, stone and adobe place one block up the hill from the plaza and run by Walther and Pepita, a Bolivian couple who really make you feel at home and part of the family. Low season rate for us was $100NS a night, private room and bath, very clean and every room seems to have a view of the mountains. And the bar/dining room area also looks out to mountains. Decent and ample breakfast of fruit, yoghurt, eggs, coffee and bread and jam. We also ate every night at the restaurant which was very good and varied menu.
I think we were one of three rooms being used there, and we were made to feel like part of the family. You are treated to a welcome drink of Pisco Sour the first evening. Walter studied in Russia and when on the 3rd night a Russian couple was staying there, he played all his Russion music, busted out the beers for us and started singing along.
Walter and Pepa also insisted The Russian and I dress up in a traditional dress of the town and that part of Peru. Dresses that were worn for special occasions such as the saint day of the village, which was a few weeks away.
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| Kuntur Wasi, Cabanaconde, Colca Canyon, Peru |
Beware of folks in 'official' AUTOCOLCA vests and clip boards at the Chivay bus terminal asking if you are going to the Cruz del Condor and the Oasis etc, because they will ask you to pay a "ticket' ($30-35?NS) to go to these places. I was suspicious as I hadn't read about this fee, so I told him we were going to just hang out in Cabanaconde and decide there what we will do, Is there a local office there where I can pay the fee? Stumped by that question he left us alone.
We stayed at Kuntur Wasi , a lovely brick, stone and adobe place one block up the hill from the plaza and run by Walther and Pepita, a Bolivian couple who really make you feel at home and part of the family. Low season rate for us was $100NS a night, private room and bath, very clean and every room seems to have a view of the mountains. And the bar/dining room area also looks out to mountains. Decent and ample breakfast of fruit, yoghurt, eggs, coffee and bread and jam. We also ate every night at the restaurant which was very good and varied menu.
I think we were one of three rooms being used there, and we were made to feel like part of the family. You are treated to a welcome drink of Pisco Sour the first evening. Walter studied in Russia and when on the 3rd night a Russian couple was staying there, he played all his Russion music, busted out the beers for us and started singing along.
Walter and Pepa also insisted The Russian and I dress up in a traditional dress of the town and that part of Peru. Dresses that were worn for special occasions such as the saint day of the village, which was a few weeks away.
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| Going native in Cabanaconde |
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